Shetland day 10: leaving Shetland

Having repeatedly referred to our 'nine-day trip' to Shetland in recent posts, I got to the end and realised it was actually ten. Well it's a long time since I got that 'A' in my Maths O-level in 1985. So apologies to those who thought this torture had come to an end, this really is the last one, probably.

Male Parrot Crossbill, eyeing up a crop of cones

The bulky head and muscular jaw can be seen here

A pair sat quietly feeding in the tree just above our heads

The tree was on a steep slope so they were not far above eye level

Day 10 started as had Day 1 - wet and windy in Lerwick. The Parrot Crossbill invasion had continued all week, and small numbers of these impressive cone-crushers had been seen on the outskirts of the town. Our first session kerb-crawling around the suburbs was only partially successful: we located a couple of Crossbills, but only as they flew from a tree just over our heads and were lost to view. Otherwise a flyover Hawfinch was the best we could manage, so we made for Sumburgh Head one last time. News filtered through of a White's Thrush on Fair Isle - there was no chance of getting there, but we could at least see the island from Sumburgh!

In recent days the Parrot Crossbills had been photographed eating cones on the pavement. I have heard of photographers baiting sites for rare birds with mealworms, but baiting the pavement with cones?

Female Parrot Crossbill

Female Parrot Crossbill

A brighter rump compared to the rest of the body

Energy levels and spirits were pretty low by this point: it had been a great week and it was a wrench to be leaving, knowing that autumn migration was still in full flow, and that more rarities would inevitably be found after our departure. We could not, and did not, complain, however, having seen at least one good rarity on each of the previous six days. Time was running out before our evening ferry so we headed back towards the port.

Fulmar, Sumburgh Head

Hooded Crow

Redpoll, Sumburgh Lighthouse Garden

Starling, Cunningsburgh

Before boarding the ferry, our final look around Lerwick was more successful: returning to the same tree from which the Crossbills had flushed earlier, a male and a female had returned and gave intimate and extended views. A fitting end to an enjoyable and rewarding week. Shetlanders were every bit as welcoming as I had been led to believe, and the birding was every bit as good. My thanks to David, Howard and Bob for their excellent company, sharp eyesight and good humour throughout.

Fair Isle from Sumburgh Head

The prehistoric settlement of Jarlshof viewed from Sumburgh Head

Budget branding at RSPB Sumburgh Head

The sun starts to set for the last time on our Shetland adventure

Shetland Day 7: far from the madding crowd

We decided on an off-island excursion on our 7th day on Shetland - to Unst, the most northerly inhabited island in the UK, where we could get away from the hordes of literally, er, tens of birders on the Mainland. The forecast, and a report of an Olive-backed Pipit, suggested that we should stop at the Kergord Plantation en route before leaving the Mainland, one of the largest areas of woodland on Shetland.

Otter on Yell while waiting for the ferry to Unst

The Otter surfaced with a fish then vanished

Seeing trees on both sides of the road is a rarity on Shetland: this is Kergord

Although Howard got a brief view of the OBP, the rest of us didn't see it, but compensation came when we each independently heard, and subsequently saw, another small group of Parrot Crossbills in the plantation. These attracted another massive crowd of at least three birders, so we set off again on the quest to get as far from the madding crowd as possible.

A female Parrot Crossbill to go with the males from the previous day

Stoat with Starling as we waited for the ferry to Yell

And this is the ferry to Yell

Speaking of Thomas Hardy, Rustic Bunting may sound like something the townsfolk hang out on May Day in one of his novels, but it is in fact an attractive vagrant from the east. News of one at Lower Voe persuaded us to make a short detour before heading for the ferry. Time was short, but the Bunting was feeding on the roadside as we arrived and was soon flushed by a passing car, assuaging our guilt at ticking-and-running.


Rustic Bunting at Lower Voe

Strikingly white underparts

Thus Ruff was feeding near the Otter

We then hit a lucky streak with Shetland mammals - first a Stoat surprised us by running across the road with a Starling in its mouth as we waited for the ferry to Yell, then an Otter surfaced holding a fish as we waited for the ferry to Unst.

A couple of Bonxies at Skaw on Unst

Curlew on Unst

The cliffs and sea at Skaw were carpeted with Shag. No pun intended.

The main target on Unst was a Red-throated Pipit which had been present for several days. We arrived as another carload of birders was leaving, and they advised us to comb the grassland above the beach at Skaw to search for the elusive pipit. A short distance from the car, a Pipit flushed out of the grass in font of us and sat up on a post.

An attractive graveyard on Unst

Well at least it's an anagram of 'Starling on sheep's ears' 

We stalked this Pipit at Skaw hoping it was the Red-throated, but photos revealed it to be a Tree Pipit

We instinctively raised our binoculars, expecting a Meadow Pipit, and had a good view at close range before it flew again. Then we all looked at each other: 'That had bright mantle stripes'. 'Yeah, and a yellow base to the bill'. 'Well that was it then!' Too easy! I kicked myself for not grabbing a photograph of the bird at point blank range, and though we attempted to refind it, it had flown beyond a wall into a private garden, and did not look like reappearing.

After burying itself in the grass the Red-throated Pipit eventually came out on the beach 

Clean whitish underparts

A better view of the pale mantle stripes and fine bill with yellow base

The weather had taken a turn for the worse by this point, and we turned to leave - no sooner had we done so than the Pipit reappeared. It was flighty but after sweeping the area with another group of visiting birders we eventually pinned it down for some photos on the beach and in the long grass beyond. 

A rear view of the pale mantle stripes

The best of a bad lot of Red-throated Pipit flight shots

Yet another Redstart - this the most obliging of the lot

The rest of the day was spent birding Unst, the highlight being a White-tailed Eagle which an observant soul had picked up perched on a distant hillside. A great excursion and a welcome bit of peace and quiet before returning to the seething metropolis of Hoswick.

The Popemobile: they pushed the boat out when His Eminence visited Shetland

Record shot of a very distant White-tailed Eagle

The long road home to Mainland Shetland

Shetland day 6: of pies and pines

Seems like an age since I was on Shetland, so apologies for the time it's taking to wade through the old news and pictures - only four days to go...Day 6 began as had the previous couple with a twirl around Hoswick - best birds of that session were a pair of Red-throated Divers in the bay which I picked up out of the kitchen window while we were having breakfast. The incessant wind continued so we sought out sheltered spots in Scalloway, finding nothing more exciting than Brambling, before heading for the pie shop.

Parrot Crosssbill

Scissoring a cone from the tree with its powerful bill

A darker red male fed just below the more orangey bird above

Calls in flight were very different to our familiar Crossbills

Bird of the day on day 6

English convenience stores have a lot to learn from their Shetland counterparts: for £1.95 we could get a delicious, compact pie with a choice of fillings and heat it up in the shop's microwave - many days this was enough to tide us over until the mid-afternoon snack pangs kicked in. I fear my constant grazing was a bad influence on the rest of the team, and by the end of the week they were troughing in to an ever expanding snack bag like troopers. At least that meant I wasn't the only one...

Red-breasted Flycatcher, Dale of Walls

Looking a bit perkier than the one we saw in the rain on our first day

A very vocal bird which frequently cocked its tail

A good view of the white patches at the base of the tail

Separated at birth from Orville the Duck

Soon after we had all pied-up, news broke of a small flock of Parrot Crossbills in a conifer plantation near Sand - a major rarity on Shetland and a bird I had seen only once before in the UK. A consensus decision saw us heading there where we got excellent views of three male birds which were following our lead by chowing down on pine cones which they had ripped from the trees - a characteristic behaviour of the species.

The RB Fly flicks from a branch over Howard's shoulder

After giving us the run-around, the Great Grey Shrike at Dale of Walls had the decency to hover over-head

Hedgehog was an addition to the mammal list for the trip

We continued to bump into good numbers of Redstarts - here a male...

...and here a female

From Sand, we headed to Dale of Walls where a very obliging Red-breasted Flycatcher and a slightly less obliging Great Grey Shrike were the highlights, before ending the day with a selection of finches at Veensgarth. So another good day, of which the Crossbills were the undoubted highlight.

Mealy Redpoll, Veensgarth

Pied Flycatcher at Sand earlier in the day

Siskin at Veensgarth

Offshore waters continued to boil in the strong winds

A calmer image to end with of the Red-breasted Flycatcher