Shetland: part the third, and last

As well as the rarities (see parts one and two), our week on Shetland back in October provided some opportunities to study northern species which we see only infrequently on the south coast of England. Top of the shopping list for me were the winter plumaged Tysties which frequented Lerwick Harbour. These charming birds look good in just about any plumage but I had not had much luck previously photographing them in their winter whites.

Close behind were the Twite, a bathing flock of which provided some compensation for two unsuccessful yomps through the infinite iris beds of Quendale in search of a reported Lanceolated Warbler. On both occasions we arrived to find no sign of the bird or the finders, reducing the chances of re-finding this mouse-like mega to a shade less than zero.

Otters were seen daily for the first few days, while other Shetland staples included Hooded Crow, Whooper Swan, Mealy Redpoll, Kittiwake, Fulmar and the ubiquitous Shetland Wren. The hoped for Killer Whales did not show for us but, unlike last year when the seas were whipped up by constant strong winds, we enjoyed a few calm days this year which gave us at least a chance to look for them.

Well that just about wraps it up for Shetland 2018. There were a few disappointments - principally the wild goose chases for the Lanceolated Warbler and a Pechora Pipit on Unst - but these were quickly forgotten when, as my wife said when I recounted the lowlights to her, 'there's always next year'. That's as good as a signed contract allowing me to go again in 2019!

And besides, the few disappointments were eclipsed by the many highlights of the trip: White-winged Scoter, Woodchat Shrike, Rosy Starling, River Warbler, Pied-billed Grebe, Eastern Yellow Wagtail, Citrine Wagtail, Rosefinch, American Golden Plover plus Barred, Marsh and Melodious Warbler were not bad for a week's birding.

It just remains for me to say many thanks to Bradders Birding Tours for providing another excellent driver for the trip, and the clans Vaughan for releasing Bob and Howard for another northern adventure. Good times in excellent company.

Rarest thing I saw on Shetland: a near vertical windsock

A fluke encounter

Whilst on holiday on the west coast of Scotland recently we pawned wedding rings and our first born to fund a whale watching trip out of Gairloch with the excellent Hebridean Wildlife Cruises. Within an hour we had made contact with a Minke Whale just beyond the mouth of the mighty sea loch.

The snout breaks the surface first in the Minke Whale's dive sequence

I didn't expect to be photographing Whale nostrils last week!

Then a long body roll...

...revealing the bulk of the animal and a sharply curved dorsal fin

A more distant view

A big beast, we could see the white sides as it came close to the boat

Minke Whale seen here with the mountains of Wester Ross in the background

The first sighting was distant, but the inquisitive Minke took everyone's breath away by surfacing just yards from the rib. A second individual was seen before we headed out across The Minch for a close look at the Shiant Islands.

A throng of Auks at the base of the cliffs on the Shiant Islands 

Over 60,000 pairs of Puffin breed on the Shiants...

...plus over 10,000 pairs of Razorbill...

...18,000 pairs of Guillemot (this one a Bridled Guillemot)...

...and 1,700 pairs of Shag

Razorbill in flight

Razorbill just getting airborne

I was fortunate enough to land here back in 1999, and although we could not leave the rib on this trip, it was great to return to find the huge colonies of Puffins and other auks apparently still doing well. The 'Enchanted islands', which are closer to Lewis than the mainland, hold approximately 10% of the UK's breeding Puffins and 7% of its Razorbills so they really are a vitally important location for seabirds.

A few pairs of Great Skua breed on the islands

A menacing presence for the other seabirds

Common Dolphin in The Minch

Grey Seals inspected our boat closely

A large Grey Seal on the Shiants

A large Kittiwake colony was also present

Small flocks of Manx Shearwater passed us in The Minch

Unfortunately the island also became home to over 3,000 non-native Black Rats which cause havoc with the ground-nesting birds. In recent years the RSPB, SNH and the Nicolson family, who own the islands, have been working together on an eradication programme. This appears to be bearing fruit as 2016 was a good breeding season for seabirds. While not too many Puffins were at their burrows during our visit, there were certainly thousands on the sea around the base of the cliffs.

The sole habitable dwelling on the Shiant Islands, once owned by Whisky Galore author Compton Mackenzie

Our vessel for the whale-watching trip

Basalt columns on the Shiants



Approaching the Shiant Islands with Lewis in the background

The mountains of Wester Ross from The Minch

Looking back to the mainland from The Minch

The view of Skye and the Old Mann of Storr from The Minch

My crewmates were happy but a bit saddle sore after 4 hours on the water

The long journey back was punctuated by the occasional passing Bonxie, small groups of Manx Shearwater and a small pod of Common Dolphin. A great experience in a memorable week for close encounters with mammals.

George is in there somewhere